The War Legacy
I admit, when I found out there was an "American War Crimes Museum" in Saigon, I got a bit worried about being an American in Vietnam and Laos. Sure, it's been over 30 years since America's involvement in the wars over here, but we DID drop a ridiculously huge amount of bombs in this part of the world. Would people still be pissed about that? Would they take it out on me? Would I be welcome there? And what's the deal with this museum?
It turns out my worries were entirely misplaced. When Sarah and Nathan were with us in southern Vietnam, we did get a few "where are you from?" questions that seemed a bit accusatory. "Um, America?" we'd tentatively reply. The responses were almost invariably jovial. "America! My cousin lives there in [incomprehensible city name], California," or the internationally popular, "America! Very lucky, rich country," or sometimes, "America, I wish I could get a visa, but it is very difficult now." They were more than happy to take our money and show us to our rooms, trying to figure out if San Francisco was anywhere near their cousin's town. In northern Vietnam, reactions were more subdued, but in no way unfriendly. In Laos, we just spent 3 days in a tiny village where the shell of a very large, unexploded US bomb was decorating the street corner. Some people in this village lived for nine years in nearby caves to survive the relentless bombing. Surely, some must harbor resentment, but it was never directed towards us.
We've had no problems from the local people in either Vietnam or Laos. It's actually the other travelers, mostly European, who always want to talk about American politics and history. One French woman, with whom we spent a day walking around Sapa in northern Vietnam, made a passing comment about the American "embarrassment" and how it must be difficult traveling in Vietnam with that legacy. I let this comment slide, not wanting to get into an argument of what to term the French experience in Vietnam if America's was an embarrassment.
The English are the most interested. They ask the typical "is it ok here as an American" question, but usually realize on their own that it's a silly question. After all, Britain brutally colonized half the world and yet they, as travelers, are still very much welcome in all those countries. Then they move on to George Bush. Why was he re-elected? What's going on with Iraq? But we quickly realize our views on these issues are pretty much the same, then we talk a bit about the polarization of the American people, then we move on to more important things like the role of the prom in American culture and whether basketball or soccer is a better spectator sport. Seriously, this is the mold of many conversations I've had (ok, the prom thing only happened once.)
So, what I've found is that the local people generally don't hold us responsible for the actions of our nation, either now or in the past, and we have more problems (if you can call them that) from other travelers. I've been amazed at how welcome we are around here given the pain and suffering the people have endured (though I recognize that my view might be skewed given that many of our interactions are with people who want us as customers). By the way, we did go to the war crimes museum. It turns out the place had been renamed the "War Remnants Museum" specifically to avoid offending tourists. The museum was unsurprisingly one-sided, with pieces on Bob Kerrey, the My Lai massacre, and the lingering effects of Agent Orange on the Vietnamese population (including a rather gruesome jar of formaldehyde preserving a deformed, still-born fetus). An unintentionally interesting part of the museum was the guestbook, which contained a number of pithy attacks on US foreign policy and George Bush that were more appropriate for an internet chat room, including this exchange:
"America fights so many wars because it's the only thing they're good at." -French tourist
"If we weren't so good at it, you'd be speaking German." -American tourist
---
We are now in Luang Prabang, Laos. We'll stay here for my birthday (the 5th), then head to Malaysia through Bangkok and Singapore (by air). Laos is a beautiful country with very few people in it. We spent the last few nights in a village with no electricity or cars, accessible only by boat. I think we saw more water buffalo than people there. Bangkok will be quite a change!
We've had no problems from the local people in either Vietnam or Laos. It's actually the other travelers, mostly European, who always want to talk about American politics and history. One French woman, with whom we spent a day walking around Sapa in northern Vietnam, made a passing comment about the American "embarrassment" and how it must be difficult traveling in Vietnam with that legacy. I let this comment slide, not wanting to get into an argument of what to term the French experience in Vietnam if America's was an embarrassment.
The English are the most interested. They ask the typical "is it ok here as an American" question, but usually realize on their own that it's a silly question. After all, Britain brutally colonized half the world and yet they, as travelers, are still very much welcome in all those countries. Then they move on to George Bush. Why was he re-elected? What's going on with Iraq? But we quickly realize our views on these issues are pretty much the same, then we talk a bit about the polarization of the American people, then we move on to more important things like the role of the prom in American culture and whether basketball or soccer is a better spectator sport. Seriously, this is the mold of many conversations I've had (ok, the prom thing only happened once.)
So, what I've found is that the local people generally don't hold us responsible for the actions of our nation, either now or in the past, and we have more problems (if you can call them that) from other travelers. I've been amazed at how welcome we are around here given the pain and suffering the people have endured (though I recognize that my view might be skewed given that many of our interactions are with people who want us as customers). By the way, we did go to the war crimes museum. It turns out the place had been renamed the "War Remnants Museum" specifically to avoid offending tourists. The museum was unsurprisingly one-sided, with pieces on Bob Kerrey, the My Lai massacre, and the lingering effects of Agent Orange on the Vietnamese population (including a rather gruesome jar of formaldehyde preserving a deformed, still-born fetus). An unintentionally interesting part of the museum was the guestbook, which contained a number of pithy attacks on US foreign policy and George Bush that were more appropriate for an internet chat room, including this exchange:
"America fights so many wars because it's the only thing they're good at." -French tourist
"If we weren't so good at it, you'd be speaking German." -American tourist
---
We are now in Luang Prabang, Laos. We'll stay here for my birthday (the 5th), then head to Malaysia through Bangkok and Singapore (by air). Laos is a beautiful country with very few people in it. We spent the last few nights in a village with no electricity or cars, accessible only by boat. I think we saw more water buffalo than people there. Bangkok will be quite a change!
posted by Derek at 6:13 PM
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